The expert is a former VP with over 11 years of experience at Restoration Hardware. He was instrumental in devising the merchandising strategy, with a focus on new product launches, pricing, and understanding business needs.
Disclaimer: This interview is for informational purposes only and should not be relied upon as a basis for investment decisions. In Practise is an independent publisher and all opinions expressed by guests are solely their own opinions and do not reflect the opinion of In Practise.
I've been in corporate retail throughout my career, focusing on the luxury furniture space and the high-end market. I started at Williams Sonoma and have mostly worked in inventory management, financial planning, and sales forecasting. I also had a brief stint in merchandising.
I was at RH for 11 years and left about three-and-a-half years ago, just as they were beginning their international planning. This was slightly before the actual launch of their stores in Madrid and Germany. I can speak to the planning and thought process involved.
More recently, I returned to Williams Sonoma, managing inventory for our kitchen division, but I've kept a close watch on RH's activities and maintain some connections there.
I think the initial impetus for the whole thing was real estate. The original idea was to start the international expansion in London. They were working on a real estate deal right in the heart of London, in a really cool neighborhood. I forget the name, but that was what launched the idea initially.
Then it was about brainstorming how to get that off the ground. I think it ended up falling through mainly because there was some issue with the contract on the building itself. But that also led to travel over there and then the Aynho property. Being in England and having the opportunity to experience the Aynho property, which is different from a traditional gallery, was unique.
The opportunity for other locations came about by taking over leases of old Abercrombie & Fitch stores. That was a deciding factor on where to launch and the timing, specifically because of those locations they were taking over.
It was probably around 2019.
That was before, maybe a year or so before that. It was in Mayfair. I just remembered. It was a very cool neighborhood, an amazing location. It was something they weren't able to finalize. They might still be working on it, but I know they shifted their focus to Aynho and have locations in Germany and Spain.
I believe it's a bit of both. Initially, we underestimated the challenge of launching in a different country due to manufacturing issues. Regulations differ; for example, upholstered sofas have different standards in England compared to the US. We work with our manufacturers to ensure the product quality matches what you'd find in the US, while also meeting local regulations, which is challenging.
Additionally, understanding sizing differences is crucial. For instance, bed sizes differ; a queen bed in the US is technically a full in England. This affects not just beds but mattresses and bedding components. We also had to consider price points. In the US, our competition is at a slightly lower price point, but RH occupies a unique space. In Europe, high-end brands like B&B Italia offer sofas at lower prices due to local manufacturing and discounts, similar to buying a Gucci purse cheaper in Italy than in the US. These factors created roadblocks when entering the market.
I also think Aynho was a marketing strategy, similar to RH's ventures into jets, yachts, and hotels. These aren't major profit centers but serve as branding tools. The Aynho experience enhances brand awareness, acting as a marketing tool since RH doesn't engage in traditional marketing like social media or print ads.
I think the excitement was definitely around London and Paris, especially being off the Champs-Élysées. That was a huge priority. I was surprised they launched in other locations, but looking back, it was probably easier to get to market. They were likely starting to take over some of these locations from a lease perspective. It would be a financial drain if they didn't get their product out there and start selling.
Yes, everything you're saying is true. They will change things up until the last minute. Even products launched online aren't available for months due to last-minute changes, ensuring everything is detailed. There must have been a strong financial reason to launch these galleries.
Also, it might have been a walk-before-you-run situation. We were struggling to determine the right size and what customers would react to because home styles in Europe differ from America, with less large spaces. It was probably twofold. It gives them an opportunity to read the business and walk before they run and not launch in huge markets where they could screw it up. They can get a good idea of how things are going and what the appetite is for certain collections. The Cloud sofa, which is the number one sofa, might not sell as well because it's too big for a London apartment or a smaller home. You probably can't even get it up most staircases there. Taking the time to read the business in smaller markets might have been a strategy as well.
I'm sure he was adjusting the strategy because it had to change for some reason.
When I was there, the strategy was to use the same products and apply the most stringent regulations. I think England had the strongest regulations for upholstered furniture. So that regulation would work across other countries.
So there should be the same product across Europe, but it would be different from the US product unless something with those regulations changed from the time I was there.
That was the strategy when I was there, specifically for upholstered furniture. That's where you have the strongest or most differentiated regulations. It was related to smoke and fire regulations that Europe had, which the US did not. So they had to use a different foam and a different type of fabric in certain cases. The idea was to have a separate sofa that met the same quality and sit. We were getting samples to ensure our US sofa and the sofa specifically for England met the regulations, sat the same, felt the same, looked the same, and were of the same quality.
It's the materials.
Yes, like the foam. The foam in your sofa needed to meet different regulations.
Are you asking about a percentage of the total RH business or a total dollar amount?
It's a difficult question without knowing the strategy and plans. I understand the locations like London and Paris, but the product assortment and whether all products are included are factors. Without diving into the business, it's hard to predict what success would look like.
I don't think that was ever the goal.
It's interesting because when you launch a new gallery in a market, you typically see a good arbitrage. It lifts the market by maybe 20% to 30%. When we started incorporating food and beverage, the stores became much larger, and we could showcase a lot more products. With the addition of food and beverage, we saw an additional 20% to 30% lift in those markets, almost doubling the impact.
We attributed part of this to the food and beverage, but also to the larger galleries, which were more standalone spaces rather than mall locations. The elevated design experience, the membership program with free design services, and the quality of our staff contributed to this lift. These elements, combined with brand awareness and non-traditional marketing tools, created a strong market presence. Even if someone wasn't initially in the market for a sofa, after dining at RH several times and enjoying the experience, it became their first choice.
I think it's a unique and smart strategy. Especially compared to places like Williams Sonoma, where the market is saturated, traditional methods like social media posts or emails don't stand out as much. These innovative strategies move the needle further, although they are more expensive. The P&L might not be immediately favorable, but in the long run, it builds sustainable brand awareness. A significant development in RH's business, which took about four years, is the launch of new products. They recently launched an interiors line that they had been waiting for, and it's making a substantial impact.
Yes, exactly. The contemporary line was indeed a flop.
Regarding the new collections, without taking a stance on their appearance or price points, the fact that they've launched new products is significant. The focus had shifted so much from product launches to other things, especially during Covid. When I was leaving, everyone was focused on contemporary, like the San Francisco gallery, which was delayed and leaned contemporary, and projects like the plane and the guest house. But that's not the core of RH. They need to launch products and newness regularly to give people a reason to return and buy new items. So, it's very positive that they've shifted their focus back to the product itself and are getting new items out there.
Yes, that and the contemporary line.
Well, Gary is the final decision maker on pretty much everything. For one person to manage all of that simultaneously is very challenging. It's difficult to stay focused on product development when he's also trying the food for San Francisco, which is supposed to open soon, or meeting with the team building the jet in Atlanta. He's often away for days, which can be distracting. As the figurehead and final decision maker, he sometimes makes last-minute changes. Even if we've signed off on a product, he might decide to change something like the hardware on a sideboard.
This can derail progress. Right or wrong, he has the vision that makes RH what it is. But it creates a circular reference, making it challenging to get things done, and it takes a long time.
We couldn't travel, and we couldn't get to Vietnam to see the product. The core product was selling very well because everyone was buying new items for Covid. So it wasn't made a huge priority because people were buying whatever was available.
When that stopped, it seems they didn't anticipate the big drop-off. I left before it happened. We were still running double-digit comps when I was there. They didn't seem to anticipate the drop-off, or they would have had a huge product launch ready. In hindsight, that would have been the best approach.
A huge deal. You're also up against a timeframe over the last two years where business really dropped off. Your comp base is much lower, so this new product will obviously perform better than the old products that had been out for four or five years. No matter what.
They're doing a great job of refreshing the brand, moving it forward, and being more trend-focused. We had collections that were our number one and number two in the assortment for years, and we were always hesitant to change them. Coming out of that timeframe, it took so long to launch new products that we started seeing those sales decline. They weren't on trend anymore, and people weren't reacting as well. Bringing in new items, those old collections have been clearanced. I think they've done a great job repositioning and moving those old collections out of the top spots.
For many years, our furniture collections, like the St. James bedroom furniture, featured very ornate beds, side tables, and nightstands. That was a significant collection in bedroom furniture. Maison was also a huge collection, with items like the balustrade dining table featuring large columns. These were our top collections for ornate furniture.
Right before Covid, we launched the Campaign collection with the Van Thiels and the French Contemporary collection, which started to become our top collections. The breadth of the assortment was key, with availability in four finishes, different colored hardware, and every imaginable size. These collections began to dominate.
Now, the focus is on newness. It's like the chicken or the egg. You put something out there as the number one collection that you want to sell. If you put it in the galleries, and tell the sales associates to sell it, and buy the most of it, and it's available and in stock in the right fabrics, that becomes the collection that will sell the best. It seems they're leaning more contemporary, even with their core interiors.
I totally agree.
From a sofa perspective, they're still fully supporting the Cloud, which remains their number one. On the website, the top sellers are prominently displayed, and the Cloud is still at the top of the seating collections.
They recently launched Motion, which I think is a significant development.
It's like an elevated La-Z-Boy. The person who launched it is the son of the person who launched the Cloud sofa.
Timothy Oulton, the creator of the Cloud sofa, passed away about two years ago. Now they're working with his son, Oliver, to launch Motion.
Yes, this is likely going to take much longer than usual.
Typically, when we launched new products, such as two or three new collections, it involved about an eight-week ramp. By the time we launched, it would take about eight to 10 weeks to see the full impact. This was often due to timing. For example, if we launched a new product in February, it might not be available until May. This delay was due to factors like last-minute hardware changes. Even if we launched something, the product might not be immediately available.
Timing also affected when products became available in galleries. Under normal circumstances, it took eight to 10 weeks to fully realize sales. After transitioning to the membership model and eliminating random promotions, product sales remained consistent week over week, with few deviations. We didn't have a seasonal business, so there was no reason for sales to fluctuate significantly.
Yes.
You would definitely see a much bigger lift once it's in the galleries. If you launch it online and in the book without changing anything, it takes eight to 10 weeks. However, if you launch it online and in the book, and then place it in the gallery eight weeks later, you'll see a much bigger lift.
There are always these little adjustments we plan the business around. For example, from this point forward, we're going to sell at a certain run rate. In March of next year, we're planning to introduce it in the galleries. Four months before that, we need to order all the display quantities for the galleries. We also have to order based on a much higher sales rate, and we plan for that in the business.
Yes, and even after the eight to 10 weeks, if something stands out, you have to ensure that whatever we remove from the gallery will be outperformed by the new product. You have to determine if it's going to get a lift, and if the current product in the gallery will be surpassed. These were the decisions we had to make. From the time the decision is made, it takes four to five months to get the product into the gallery due to lead times, manufacturing, and shipping.
That's under normal circumstances.
Yes, unless they made the decision earlier. With a lot of the new products launched now, they identified what they wanted to support and moved away from older products in the gallery. I assume they made the decision before the product launch and expedited the process. They aimed for a new look, leaning more contemporary, and I think they've painted many gallery interiors.
They lightened up, giving it a refresh. Overall, I think they're painting the exterior of many galleries. The one near my house has scaffolding going up. They're moving away from that big, gray building to something probably closer to what the San Francisco gallery looks like.
They're probably going to change. They'll likely have to do a lot more than that.
When making this decision, you're doing the source book and the gallery at the same time. They're saying, "This is going to be our new number one collection." We're going to change it in the gallery right away. We're ordering it at the same time we would order, but it will still be a few months later than the book launch because the product is always delayed.
Outdoor is interesting because it's a seasonal business. If you don't launch and get the products to people in time, you miss a whole season. It's a $100 million or $200 million business now. So no matter what, there has to be a focus on outdoor. It has to launch in February and be productive and available by mid-March. Gary has to focus on it.
That says a lot. There's new product every year, and there's a huge risk to the business if it's delayed, not launched on time, or not available when it should be. That's a big deal.
Yes, 100%.
Exactly.
Yes, it's significant because he's not getting any younger.
When I was there, it was challenging to identify our direct competitors. Our House was smaller and less active. There weren't as many smaller brands attracting attention. Now, there's more competition, like Lulu and Georgia or Simply Modern. Our house is expanding, opening galleries, using a model similar to RH. Their chief merchant is an RH alum, applying what she learned and making progress.
When they launched something like Contemporary, they aimed for higher quality products. The strategy was to climb the luxury mountain, reaching a higher price point with better quality, using Italian factories. It probably didn't work as well as anticipated, so they're adjusting. I believe RH offers great value. I have a lot of their furniture, and it's held up well. People are proud to buy from there. It's not like a first home brand like Pottery Barn, which is for when you have less to spend.
They had to pull back due to increased competition and more options for consumers. There's more trend-forward stuff at lower prices, and competitors are emerging. Have you heard of the brand Quince?
They are positioning themselves as a brand that removes the middleman, going directly from factory to customer, which allows them to offer much lower price points. They compete with high-end clothing lines, claiming to offer the same quality at a much cheaper price. They recently launched a leather sofa similar to the Maxwell sofa we have at RH in leather. They sent an email comparing prices between Our House, RH, Pottery Barn, and possibly another competitor, highlighting the same manufacturing and leather quality but at a lower price point. There are companies targeting them, and I am unsure if RH is producing the product cheaper due to strong vendor relationships or if they are taking a margin hit on some items while balancing it with higher-margin products.
I believe RH's relationships with their vendors are unique, having worked with the same vendors for a long time. This gives them negotiating power, possibly through longer-term commitments or higher order quantities. They might also play with the product mix, taking a higher cost on some items and a lower cost on others, maintaining a certain product margin mix based on sales. Additionally, they might be working with new manufacturers or supporting vendors with new machinery to increase efficiency.
I would be surprised if they are. Even before Covid, we continued to raise prices, and our margin increased significantly, as costs were not rising.
The only variable factor was the cost of shipping, which started to rise, especially during Covid. However, the cost of the product for older collections remained stable for years, even as we raised prices annually. This resulted in higher margins. We might just be returning to pre-price increase levels.
We would assess the tipping point. Until we reached it, raising prices by 2%, 3%, or 4% didn't significantly impact the business. We maintained certain price points, like under $1,500, for example, $1,499. We continued to gradually increase prices until we felt the impact. Selling fewer units at a higher price point benefits the bottom line because it reduces the volume going into the distribution center, requires fewer staff, and decreases back orders.
I believe it's largely about the experience. When you enter the gallery, meet with a designer, and see how the product is delivered, it all contributes to the experience. The packaging and the delivery, now accompanied by ambassadors with every furniture delivery, are part of it. The presentation of the product is another significant aspect. The strategy involves these beautiful, clean source books that make you want your house to look like the images, or you want all that product in your own home.
The people selling it play a crucial role as well. Someone who helps you choose, understands how the product is made, and the collaborations, like with Timothy Oulton and Oliver Oulton adds to the luxury. The Van Thiels contribute to telling that story. Having a product that lasts, and if it doesn't, standing behind it is vital. If a product fails, like the Cloud sofas, RH replaces them without question. This is part of the luxury experience, ensuring customer satisfaction.
We were doing a lot of that before realizing the need to set a minimum purchase requirement. Designers in the galleries were creating floor plans and helping customers design their homes, often visiting them. It was initially to build the sale, but now there's a minimum purchase to access that service. This is partly because we had to hold a lot of products until they were ready to be shipped, with 3% or 4% of our inventory held for customers.
Yes, and customers often say their home won't be ready until a certain date, while the product arrives earlier, creating logistical challenges.
I think there's actually a lot. We often focus on niche markets on the coasts, like New York, LA, and San Francisco. But there's a whole other country out there. In places like Houston, Dallas, and Boise, people are buying huge homes and visiting RH galleries. Many are purchasing large second homes in Montana and want everything done for them without having to think about it.
I think it's going to do great. It's a fantastic location.
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The expert is a former VP with over 11 years of experience at Restoration Hardware. He was instrumental in devising the merchandising strategy, with a focus on new product launches, pricing, and understanding business needs.